Thursday, August 15, 2013

Reading For My South African Vacation

I wanted to read these three books for some time and decided that a vacation to South Africa was an apt time. I do wish I had read them before, instead of during and after.  First, I would have been, conversationally, better prepared; secondly, there is not much time to read when traveling with a child for whom you are his only playmate.

                                                                     photo credit: Amazon.com 
                                                                                       to purchase click on image of book

The Power of One by Bryce Courtenay.  Fiction, 369pgs. This is a favorite of a colleague and friend of mine, Sandra Goodrich. I like to read people’s favorite books to see what all the fuss is about. Set at the outbreak of WWII in South Africa, it is the story of a young boy named Peekay who must navigate life in a nation with a very complex history. A history and culture that affects his everyday existence. I read this first, which was good because it gave me a strong sense of the history and culture of South Africa.

                                                                      photo credit: Amazon.com 
                                                                                       to purchase click on image of book

Kaffir Boy by Mark Mathabane. Autobiography, 399pgs. First, DO NOT ever use the word “Kaffir” anywhere in Africa. It is the same as using the N-word in the US. I had an issue at customs at Tambo Airport when I was searching for my boarding pass, and threw this book on the counter. The customs agent did not understand why the book was titled as it was, and felt obligated to educate me on use of this word. This book DETAILS the life of Johannes “Mark” Mathabane who grew up in one of the poorest townships, Alexandra, outside of Johannesburg in the 1960’s and 70’s. This is an unrestrained biography of apartheid as seen through the eyes of one child and one family.  The de facto and de jure racism that black Africans faced everyday under apartheid made me cry. I am amazed that any human being could withstand and survive in that environment.

                                                                                            photo credit: Amazon.com 
                                                                                       to purchase click on image of book

Long Walk to Freedom by Nelson Madela. Autobiography, 656pgs. I did not meet one person in Africa, white or black, that did not hold Mandela up as a hero. Long Walk to Freedom is the story of an activist and his movement. I like a book that describes the episodes in one’s life where a lesson was learned. I guess that is possible to recall these events when one has 27 years in jail to reflect one’s life. What struck me most was how long this struggle, to end Apartheid, lasted…1912-1994, with first democratic elections in South Africa. Also, like most social movements, the world associates a movement with one person. In this case, the end of apartheid is credited to Mandela, but in fact there were many people fighting to end apartheid. His celebrity was invented as a highly successful “Free Mandela” media campaign by the African National Congress (ANC). This book also reinforced the harsh sacrifices an activist’s family must endure. 


The juxtaposition of reading three books about the same country from different perspectives, while visiting that country gave me comprehensive insight into the history and culture of a people.  The Power of One gave a glimpse into colonial South Africa, while Mathabane’s and Madella’s respective biographies showed different hues of the policy of Apartheid. 


Thursday, August 8, 2013

Why I Iook My Eight-Year-Old to Africa

As Americans we live better than anyone on the planet, but we are a very small portion of the world’s population. I wanted Micah to see how other people live on the planet.

Americans, especially our young people, take our many advantages for granted. Our young people are apathetic in an educational system the majority of children around the world envy. They don’t read the millions of books they have access to, when so many people are illiterate and have no access to books. Few Americans vote in a political system where power transfers peacefully, when people die for democracy and the right to vote. Our young people live a lifestyle for which they haven’t earned, expecting to have all those smart phones, iPads, game systems, and a car without lifting a finger to help at home while being disrespectful to their parents. They don’t understand short term sacrifice for a long term goal. Some Americans throw their opportunities away through apathy, drugs, violence, and indifference.

I took my son to Africa so he would appreciate and take advantage of every privilege he has as young American.

I wanted him to learn there is not one “right” political system, culture or economy. The world offers a wide variety of ideas and solutions. He can learn from exposure to a world of ideas.

                                                                               South African Constitution 
                                                                    written in granite on public display in SOWETO
                                                         Photo Credit: Rachael Costello
I wanted him to learn to navigate airports, bus stations, and foreign cities.

I wanted him to know that he should not be afraid to travel, or be afraid of people from other countries.

I want him to know that he has an obligation to improve this world that he has been lucky enough to be born into.

I want him to experience first-hand language, science, history, geography, and culture. I want him to witness other people’s passions so he can find his own passion whether that is social justice, cheetahs, or digging up fossils of early humans.

I hope he remembers Africa, when he is offered drugs and when his friends are fooling around in class. I want him to stop and think about people who are hungry for food, knowledge, and/or opportunity.

                                                            shanty town in the mostly middle class township of SOWETO
                                                               Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

I want him to never forget all the opportunities that he has as an American.



Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Technology and the African Safari



First, I planned and booked our whole African adventure online. I used Travelocity to book flights and then keyword searches to find safari operators in South Africa & Namibia

Don't underestimate Africa. Everywhere we went people had smartphones. As I mentioned in an earlier blog post, Blackberry has an African special $50 rand a month (=5 US $) with unlimited text, data, and phone.

While on safari in Kruger our guide was part of a coalition of guides who shared information about animal sightings. Each would text the location of rare sightings (lions, leopard, cheetah, wild dogs and rhinos) to the group so that everyone could benefit. That kind of technology based cooperation really helped us see a lot of wildlife.

I bought a new Wi-Fi enabled camera that was small enough to fit in my money pouch out if sight, unfortunately the Wi-Fi required drivers be loaded thus did not work effectively. I didn't need the Wi-Fi feature at home where I have a computer and fire wire, but I really needed it at a free, public Wi-Fi and it didn’t work.  I would recommend not buying a Wi-Fi camera until the technology improves. 
                                                          Photo Credit: Micah Costello

The iPod touch 5 was invaluable. When traveling with a child you must have a second camera, and my son used it a lot. We tried to take pictures on the camera and the iPod at each location and animal sighting. I had forgotten about the video option, but Micah remembered and we were able to record several animal events. A child with a camera does require some deletion time each evening though, as many, many pictures are taken at each sighting, and of the ground, the sky, funny faces and the back of the mother’s head.

                                                            Video Credit: Micah Costello

The blog was intended to give my family piece of mind while we were away. I needed a simple blog application, and Blogger by Google was perfect. We downloaded the Blogger App onto the iPod Touch, and were able to communicate throughout the whole trip. It was difficult to type blog posts on such a small screen, and auto correct and African words added to the challenge.

The PicStitch App allowed me to make collages of photos and crop pictures of faraway animals. This was important when I wanted a visual of several items, but didn’t want to clog the blog with images. 

Communication with family was extremely important as there were many concerns about me taking my eight-year-old son to Africa. I checked with my cell phone carrier before my trip to see if my phone would work either in Europe or Southern Africa, and it would not so I had planned to buy a phone when I landed in South Africa. However, before our departure I downloaded the TextNow  App hoping that might save me from having to buy a phone. TextNow proved to be invaluable!  At every leg of the trip I was able to text my sister who then conveyed to the rest if the family that we were safe and at out next destination. The TextNow calling  feature even worked in Africa. The call I made to my mother had audio issues but I merely texted my sister who gave my mother my TextNow number and in 2 minutes she called us and we were talking via the Outlook Lodge’s Wi-Fi system and our iPod Touch.

Finally, Dropbox also proved priceless. Whenever, we had Wi-Fi access, the pictures would automatically load to the Dropbox. However, the free Dropbox account does not hold all 2281 African Adventure photos so I did have to clean up the Dropbox, and re-upload the best of the pictures after we returned. 


Saturday, July 13, 2013

Rachael's reflections on our African Adventure

What was your favorite experience during the trip?
Sitting at the Maringa Waterhole at our camp in Etosha. Watching the animals especially the elephants come and go and how they interacted with each other. I think that spot is heaven on earth. I also really liked our site under the stars at Naukluft National Park 
                       Photo Credit: Rachael Costello
What was least favorite experience?
Uncomfortable discussions with some guides about politics and race.

What was your favorite animal?
The giraffes 
                    Photo Credit: Rachael Costello 

Which national park safari was your favorite?
Kruger because it felt more adventuresome. 

How would you rate your African adventure?
Amazing!!!!!

What was your favorite foods? 
The many braai ( barbecue ) meals. 

What was the scariest moment?
I got nervous at the rest area on the drive back to Windhoek where we ate a picnic lunch when a car pulled in. I felt vulnerable in that moment.

Who was your favorite tour guide? 
A tie between Simphiwe our guide around Johannesburg and Debbie our guide in Kruger.

What do you want people to know about your trip?
South Africa and Namibia are very modern and I felt safe the whole time. 

What most surprised you about Africa?
1. Police road blocks where every car most stop and have their paperwork checked. 
2. They have elderly parking spaces next to the disabled parking spaces. 
3. The walls and security got to the point if ridiculous when we got to Windhoek and our room/suite had rolling doors ( like garage doors) over all the windows. I literally. Felt like I was sleeping in a box. I wouldn't want to live my life in such constant fear that I had to fully cover every window and door. 
4. Everyone I met had a blackberry. My seat mate on our flight to Namibia explained that Blackberry has a special African deal...$50Rand a month with unlimited text, data and phone. Brilliant marketing for a huge untapped market. 

What characteristic of African culture do you want to incorporate into your life back home?
With each  international trip, I like to consciously  adopt a piece if the culture. In England, in 1987 it was to appreciate subtle differences in culture. In Zimbabwe in 1996 it was to value and appreciate my family like Zimbabweans. In Italy in 2002 it was to live outside more especially eat dinner outside more like Italians and their cafes. In Cuba, it was to be more politically informed. This SA and Namibian trip is to build my own coalition. Cheetahs are usually solitary but will come together. A group of cheetahs is a coalition. All the wild animals work together. We often saw a lone kudo who had been kicked out of his herd milling around with springbok. The Ox picker bird has a symbiotic relationship with the rhino, they sit a top the rhinos back and eat parasites which help keep the rhino healthy. Female elephants form a family unit that is highly organized in protecting the herds calves. So consciously form a coalition of support is what I will take away from this trip and to again start reading regular news out of Africa. I found myself politically out of touch with issues important to Africans. 

What do you wish was different about the trip?
I wish Mairyn or Paul had come too

What did you miss most about home while away?
Green salads

What was most exciting experience? 
The cheetah hunt and live impala kill. 

What I wish I had done different?
I wish I had read more on Apartheid, and Mandella's biography before coming and I wish I had gotten to visit a rural school and a library. 




African Travel with children: A Mother's View

African Travel with children is a challenge! Micah was generally well behaved and even was complimented by Simphiwe about what a nice young man he was,  but his behavior was slightly off at every new  transition and as a result was either fresh mouthed or very foolish. I fear he was not the American ambassador that I hoped he would be.

He was not always as attentive during the lulls of game drives. The guides who are passionate about the animals were a little put off by his inability to spend hours scanning the Bush for animals with little gratification. Most guides were very tolerant with Micah, but not all. 
                    Photo Credit: Rachael Costello
As I knew it would be, food was an issue. First we ate much later every night than we do at home. Secondly, food is different when away from home. Micah is a big eater so although he ate something every meal  he didn't really fill up. He mostly ate bread and butter. He did surprise me by loving bobotie a sweet Malay curry with rice. He says he hates rice at home. Because we was never full, I did buy him a lot of snacks, an ice cream bar everyday, candy bars and soda thus reinforcing our Namibian guide's view that Americans just ate junk food. After several snide comments I had to explain we don't eat like this at home and that were on vacation. 

The biggest issue for me was the guides sharing their view of other people they saw as less desirable.  I have a very specific world view that I am trying to instill in Micah and that was challenged several times while on safari. Several times I had to speak to Micah privately about not listening to the  guides view of people. That the world is filled with many people from different cultures who have many customs  that are not wrong but just different. 

Showers and airplane electronics seemed to cause the most problems. Yes, at Kruger I found myself in the men's bathroom trying to manage a screaming  child who couldn't manage flip flop shower shoes, the faucet and slightly wet clothes. And in Etosha apologizing to overlanders in the women's showers for the screaming as a  result of a lukewarm shower. He got spoiled by British Airways entertainment system and got upset when things didn't work on South African Airway's planes. However, he was very quiet on the many long drives and managed waits in long lines very well too. Several times I had to warn him that if he wanted to go on MY FUTURE international trips he needed to be a good traveler, and if not there were two cousins at home who would be happy to travel. 

Because we spent so much time driving, Micah's Energy level was very high when not in the car which is an issue on safari, because even though we stayed in camps you still had to watch out for  wild animals: venomous snakes, wart hogs, hyenas, baboons, and honey badgers. As a result he couldn't run and play his energy out like at home. Additionally, he really needed a playmate other than me. He created this lion attack hug that was a bit much for a 44 year old mother . Although there were kids in almost every campsite, he struggled to make connections b/c  they all had siblings to play with and b/c of the language barrier although what he didn't realize was they all spoke English too. 

He had a lot of mishaps. Many skinned  knees and a thumb slammed in a door. I was glad I had band-aids and Neosporin on hand. I had to throw one pair of pants away after one evening of two torn and scraped & bloody knees. Getting dirty was another issue . Micah didn't seem to understand that we had limited clothes and shoes, and couldn't do laundry at the drop if a hat. Additionally, Micah who never vomits, vomited three times on our trip. After the third time I got smart and started carrying around a bag, which I needed when our plane landed in Boston. I don't know if it was anxiety or motion sickness, but it wasn't fun.

The one thing I did right was bring a second camera option. We had a camera and the camera on the iPod touch. This was invaluable. Micah wanted to take pictures of animals, he was then able to watch videos and view pictures later on which kept him busy, and when he got bored in the truck he would take pictures if funny faces
                      Photo Credit: Micah Costello

Over all it was a great trip!!




Micah's reflections on our African Adventure

What was your favorite experience during the trip?
The up close cheetah experience at Otjitotongwe. I got to pet a cheetah. A cheetah licked me and a cheetah  stole my hat and played with it. 

What was least favorite experience?
Slamming my thumb in the truck door at the rest stop where we had lunch on our way back to Windhoek. 

What was your favorite animal?
The cheetah

                           Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

Which national park safari was your favorite?
Kruger because you could see warthogs and monkeys and baboons in the camp and a hyena on the other side of the fence just outside our tent.

                           Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

How would you rate your African adventure?
10 thumbs up 

What was your favorite foods? 
The chocolate Carmel cake while at Kruger, Christian's spaghetti bolagnais in Etosha, and Fanta orange & magnum classic ice cream bar & the many kit kats I ate for snacks. 

What was your least favorite food?
Malaria medicine 

What was the scariest moment?
I didn't have one.

Who was your favorite tour guide?
Christian our guide in Namibia.

What do you want people to know about your trip?
I had a fun time and felt safe. 

What most surprised you about Africa?
I had to barter in the African markets. 

What characteristic of African culture do you want to incorporate into your life back home?
Being in less of a hurry and being more patient. 

What do you wish was different about the trip?
I wish Mairyn or Paul had come.

What did you miss most about home while away?
Gree And the rest of my family. 

What was most exciting experience? 
The cheetah hunt and live impala kill. 

What did you learn that you didn't know before?
That Zimbabwe is not politically stable. 

Friday, July 12, 2013

Namibia's Diverse Environment

Namibia is dry, negative humidity!! I might need the rest of the summer to get re-hydrated. 
Namibia has one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. 
Windhoek sits in the center of a ancient volcano and is surrounded by mountains. The land is mainly a flat bush  Outside of Windhoek. As we got further North there were mountains and Naukluft Camp in The Namib-Naukluft National Park  reminded me of Sabino Canyon in Arizona. The weather is changing in Namibia as a result of global climate changes and is often erratic. It rains in cloud bursts. So one farmer may get a lot of rain and have good vegetation through the winter and his neighbor may get no rain and his land is struggling. This also can cause unexpected flash flooding, because it may have rained north and all of a sudden the rivers fill and flood 100 miles south of where it actually rained. 
                                 a dry river bed in Kruger National Park
                               Photo Credit: Rachael Costello
I didn't realize but There are different ecosystems with a desert. Within the Namib Desert there is the semi-desert where the are small bushes and low scrub grass but can still support grazing animals like oryx, springbok, bat eared foxes and ostriches. Then there is the high desert on top of plateaus, where smaller animals like squirrels and birds can survive. Then there is the rock desert where there is really no vegetation just barren gravel areas, then there is what most people think of when they think of the desert soft, fine sand of shifting sand dunes. In Namibia these sand dunes can be tradition sand colored or in Sossusvlei the sand attracts iron and the moisture turns it to red iron oxide. The sand dunes if Sossusvlei are actually fossilized underneath the soft sand. Even on these inhospitable sand dunes we saw bugs eeking  out a life. Sossusvlei gets more tourists than Etosha National Park. 

                                                                The many faces of the Namib Desert                                          
                                                                    Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

The Namib Dessert meets the Atlantic Ocean and there is a whole coastal climate similar to San Francisco where the cold ocean air is pulled inland 50 or so miles.

                            Sand dunes of Namib Desert meet the Atlantic
                                  Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

Etosha is diverse in itself. it has dense bush and near the pan everything is covered with a fine white calcite dust that blows off the pan. A pan is a huge dry waterhole that rarely or in some cases annually fills to a shallow pool. 

                               The Etosha Pan
                                   Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

The green tint on the Etosha Pan in picture above is actually algae.  

A watering hole is a spring fed body of water that holds water year round.

                  Water hole in Ethosa National Park
                    Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

Etosha also has huge open grass lands where huge herds of zebra, wildebeest, 
Springbok, and giraffes graze. 

                   grassy plains in Etosha National Park
                            Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

North along the Okavango River in Caprivi Strip the environment is tropical. We had considered trying to see it but after a 13 hour driving day, it was decided that it was still too far.