Sunday, June 30, 2013

Ten Things We Learned on Safari

1. The most dangerous animal on safari is the make African buffalo called duggars. They have been kicked out of the protection of the herd, and are old and ornery. They are stressed and very unpredictable. They are smart and when being hunted they will often double around and the hunters become the hunted.
2. The animal that kills the most people in Africa is the vegetarian hippo. Hippos are extremely territorial. You may have heard of canoe safaris, well unknowing guides paddle over their territories and attack the canoes. One either dies from the bite of their huge teeth and strong jaws or they drag you to the bottom and you drown. They only come out to eat at night otherwise they are beached in the sand or cooling off in the water. Also, hippos don't swim they walk on the bottom of the river or watering hole. 
3. Giraffes have a powerful kick that can kill a lion. The darker their colors the older they are. Males have bald bone spots at the top of their horns and females have hairy horns. Although, males don't stay with females, giraffes are social so males come and visit sometimes. A group if giraffes is called a journey or kaleidoscope. 
4. Rhinos come in two types: black (rare) and white, both endangered. One can tell them apart by their mouths. Black rhinos are broad mouthed which is how they got their name...the word broad in Dutch got lost in translation and morphed into black. Thus the others became white.
5. Precisionary caterpillars. When caterpillars are migrating to a new tree they form a train to cross open expanses.  The theories are they may do this to look bigger, like a snake to avoid being eaten or run over. 
                 Precisionary caterpillars
               Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

6. Cheetahs are poor hunters when alone. We witnessed first hand that they are good in a group but once grown usually don't form a coalition (a group of cheetahs). First, they are picky eaters. Second, to hunt they expend a lot of energy, So they often have to rest between chases if the first isn't successful. Once they get their pray they have to eat quickly before lions or a leopard smell it and easily chase them off, but they have expended so much energy they need to catch their breath before they can eat. This delay to rest before eating is when they are most vulnerable to other predators stealing their food.  Because cattle and goats are easy prey they come into conflict with farmers outside of the reserves. A cheetah mother teachers her cubs to hunt by first wounding an animal to slow it down so the cubs can then have a successful hunt.
7. All African buffalo in Kruger have bovine tuberculous and thus all the lions who eat the buffalo have tuberculous too.
8. Hyenas are not dogs or cats they are more closely related to mongoose.  They are the CDC if the bush. They can digest diseased meat and not get sick themselves then digest it in a way to kill the disease And not allow it to spread. If a disease breaks out in the bush the hyena can as a species clean it up and snuff it out.
                                                                                                      Spotted hyena
                                                                      Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

9. The big male baboons who are not normally caregivers will grab a baby baboon when they have done something wrong to avoid being hit. They also sleep in the trees near a water source. They all get a drink before going to bed in a tree to avoid being a lion's midnight snack.
                                                            Baboons in Kruger National Park
                                                          Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

10. Impala are called McDonald's because they are around every corner and they are also "fast" food and they have black markings on their butts in the shape of an M . They are they main prey if the big cats. They have gland at the bottom of each leg with a black tuft of hair. If they  get startled they all run in different directions and gland secretes an odor. The theories are that this may cause confusion in the prey chasing them b/c they don't know which way to chase, or that the smell leads the impala back the each other to herd up again. 
                                                                                  Impala
                                                       Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

11. A bonus... Elephants have a preferred tusk like humans have a preferred hand. One can tell which tusk is dominant by a tusk that is smaller or even broken from over use on that tusk. We spent the last day analyzing each elephant for its tusk dominance.
                                                               Elephant in Kruger National Park
                                                                Photo Credit: Rachael Costello




Choose Outlook Lodge and Safari

I am so happy about our safari tour operator in South Africa, Outlook Lodge and Safaris. First, the staff in Johannesburg and in Kruger are nice and sooooo accommodating. The food in both places is wonderful. I was hoping to lose weight in Africa but I think I am gaining. The Lodge in Johannesburg is located in a very safe suburb of Johannesburg. The lodge would be considered a mansion by American standards surrounded by other mansions with tons of outdoor seating areas and birds (it's near a bird sanctuary). It's very clean and the beds are comfortable. The drive to Kruger is long but our driver, Willie, was so sweet and gregarious and knowledgeable. The drive was really like a tour instead of a transfer. We stayed inside the park at the Skakuza Restcamp.  We wanted to tent but they also have chalets with bathrooms for those less inclined to roughing-it. There is a good restaurant and huge gift shop/grocery and even a pool (we didn't see it though). Our tent was along the fence and every night a hyena was just on the other side of the fence. I tried to get a picture but it was too dark.

                                                            warthog beside our tent at Skakuza Restcamp, Kruger National Park
                                                               Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

One night I got up at 12:30 to go to the bathroom and I could hear him start vocalizing and run up to my tent... Maybe 5 feet away.
The food served was so good, you can't imagine it could be produced in a tent kitchen. Micah's favorite was the chocolate cake with caramel filling and second was the ice cream with caramel sauce. I had to be rolled back to my tent every night. However, the main reason to go to is Debbie, the safari guide. She was amazingly knowledgeable. She volunteered to take us on a half day safari when we were only expecting a morning and evening game drive. That turned into a full day 6:00 am- 4:30pm. That's the day we saw most of the animals. The feature that puts Outlook Safaris above others is the insulated ponchos and hot water bottles that they provide for the morning game drives. Remember its only 30-40 degrees in the mornings and you sit up high in the safari vehicle with the wind blowing on you. Those two little luxuries made our safari perfect.

                           hot water bottle and insulated poncho                       
                             Photo Credit: Rachael Costello




The Luckiest People On The Planet

I am feeling like the luckiest people on the planet today. While in Kruger we saw all of their endangered species. Our guide, Debbie, told us she had never had guests see all the Kruger endangered species in one visit. There are 120 cheetahs in Kruger and I knew not even to hope to see one. To be able to see 7 was mind blowing. We saw a white rhino and her baby and later in the day a male black rhino alone. They are endangered by human poachers for their ivory tusk. Most visitors to the park don't get excited about Wild dogs but they are also in danger of extinction and there are only 113 in Kruger. We saw nine, almost 10% of Kruger's population.
The final endangered species sighting was a bird, the Southern Ground Hornbill. They are endangered by elephants. Their nesting habitat is a tree that is a favorite of elephants to knockdown. Micah wasn't grasping the significance of seeing these animals until I explained to him that if measures weren't taken to protect these animals that by the time he was an adult they may be extinct like the dinosaurs. He would be a witness to their existence and their extinction.


                                                 Photo Credit: Rachael Costello



Kruger Safari

We are back from our first safari in Kruger National Park and it was amazing. It felt like we were in a National Geographic episode. We saw many elephants one even touched the truck, thousands of impala, hundreds of monkeys and baboons.

                                        Photo Credit: Rachael Costello and Micah Costello

There were lions, warthogs, kudo, waterbuck, bushbuck giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, African buffalo, wild dogs, hyena and tons of birds. We didn't see leopard or Zebras. But the highlight was two separate sightings of a total of SEVEN cheetah. Cheetah are usually solitary animals but there was a family of cheetahs; a mom and her 5 cubs (which were now her size) spotted near The Skakuza Restcamp where we stayed. On the last day as we were driving back to camp a man stopped us to tell us the cheetah family had just been scene on the parallel road and they were headed right for us. We waited and sure enough first came mom and then a few minutes later the 5 cubs.

                                                                                                family of cheetahs 
                                                                Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

Then we got to witness the most amazing thing: a cheetah hunt that resulted in an impala kill. We saw them running and we turned the corner of the road just in time to see them push it to the ground and start devouring it. In about 30 seconds the sky was filled with vultures. I have goosebumps even now thinking about it. Our safari guide, Debbie was out of her mind ecstatic. In eight years she had never seen a live hunt and kill, let alone 7 cheetah in one day. After the cheetah kill Micah said " this was the best day of my whole life" 

Mairyn, Micah and I want you to know that several times while on safari we said out loud that you would have loved this and we wished you were here to see it.






Wednesday, June 26, 2013

On Safari in Kruger National

We are not sure of Wi-Fi access in Kruger so don't expect any posts for the next four days.

Micah's New Best Friend

Micah has a new best friend, his name is Jabu which is an abbreviation of the Zulu word for happiness. 

                               Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

Also, Micah made his first purchase for 50Rand which I had to bargain down from 100rand. I hate to bargain! He wanted it on the blog.
                                    Photo Credit: Micah Costello




Sight-Seeing in SOWETO

We toured SOWETO today. We saw all the major highlights, Noble Peace Prize winners Nelson Mandela's house, Desmond Tutu's house. We also saw Winnie Mandela's house, the memorial at the corner where the 1976 student uprising occurred, the hector Peterson museum, the SA Constitution, and the Apartheid Museum which had an exhibit on Nelson Mandela. It was an inspiring day. It makes me want to be more and to do more with my life.

                            Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

Take note of the art at the Apartheid Museum . Micah almost missed his own President.

President Obama's image among the South African history makers in the cafe at the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg, South Africa
                 Photo Credit: Rachael Costello



No Culture Shock

So I expected Micah to have culture shock when we arrived in Africa, but honestly South Africa is so modern, cosmopolitan, and multicultural that we both feel like we might be in Florida or Arizona or Los Angeles.  He feels so comfortable that he walks ahead of me on the street and seems completely un-phased by the fact we are in A-F-R-I-C-A!!!!


Best Couch Day Ever


I love British Airways. A pillow, blanket, headphones and a tooth brush greeted us at our seats. We got two full meals on each flight and everyone had our own entertainment centers. I watched three current films that are literally still in theaters. It  was one the best "coach" days ever. I literally didn't hear a peep from Micah until we landed in London when he threw-up. I think it was just motion sickness because he was fine afterward. As I already mentioned the flight from London to Johannesburg was bumpy and I found it difficult to sleep, Micah on the other hand had no problem sleeping.

                                     British Airways flight 
                        Photo Credit: Rachael Costello



Tuesday, June 25, 2013

We arrived

After 24 hours of flying and airports we have made it  to Johannesburg. Here is a picture of our home at the Outlook Lodge for the next 3 days.


                Guest room at the Outlook Lodge, Johannesburg, South Africa
                    Photo Credit: Rachael Costello

We are laying low today. The night flight to Jo-burg was bumpy and uncomfortable, and I didn't get much sleep. So Micah has noticed they drive on the other side of the road, the soil is very red, and Micah has already learned the special Southern African handshake. I had forgotten about the African handshake (they also use it in Zimbabwe), but our driver shook my hand this way when he greeted us at the airport. Our tour guide, Simphiwe, was surprised when he arrived to take us on our first day of sightseeing when I shook his hand in this fashion.
                                                                                      video credit: Rachael Costello

The weather is lovely; sunny. dry, and about 65 degrees today.

Sunday, June 23, 2013

Dropbox Photos

Here is the link for the Dropbox folder I set up for our Africa pictures. These will only be pictures from my iTouch which will mainly be Micah as photographer. I am going to try and set up the camera to send to the Dropbox too, but it's a little temperamental. The previous post on Medicine came from the camera.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/myvfxb6tlv49625/8QgiY1o_4J

Jessica Raspa this is for you. :-)



Rachael Costello Invites You to View Their Online Photo Album.

CANON iMAGE GATEWAY provides you with an online photo album from Rachael Costello.


Medicine

I am bringing the basics in first aid. Basically, remedies for things you could die from...infection, diarrhea, and fever. Wondering about the wire cutters? In case I have to MacGyver a loose wire in Micah's braces, which I have to do regularly at home. They are going in my checked baggage, I hope they don't trigger full body search at airport security.

You can view the album at the following URL:
Click here to view:
http://opa.cig2.usa.canon.com/s/m/FwXBSaihNwC


CANON iMAGE GATEWAY is an online photo resource for registered users of qualifying Canon brand products.
http://www.cig.usa.canon.com/




This e-mail has been sent by CANON iMAGE GATEWAY as requested by Rachael Costello.
The reply address for this e-mail is RACHAEL.COSTELLO@COMCAST.NET.

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Perfect travel accessory

               Photo Credit: Micah Costello

Thanks to Ruth Brophy who mentioned that she had found the perfect travel bag at Marshall's for sightseeing. The biggest danger when traveling oversees is pick-pockets. Let them try and pick from this without me noticing. This thing has so many zippered pockets & nooks I may not need the two duffel bags I planned to bring...hahahaha!

Charity

After reading the story of cheetah cubs Rainbow and Aurora on the Cheetah Conservation Fund Blog , Micah decided to donate the money in his charity fund to the Cheetah Conservation Fund.

Rainbow
Image source and credit: Cheetah Conservation Fund
http://cheetahupdates.blogspot.com/2013/04/rainbow-and-aurora.html

Rainbow helps Aurora feel comfortable at CCF rehabilitation center

Image source and credit: Cheetah Conservation Fund
http://cheetahupdates.blogspot.com/2013/04/rainbow-and-aurora.html


Rainbow and Aurora best friends

Image source and credit: Cheetah Conservation Fund
http://cheetahupdates.blogspot.com/2013/04/rainbow-and-aurora.html

According to the Cheetah Conservation Fund, there are only 10,000 cheetahs left in the wild today. As you may expect, the biggest threat to cheetahs comes from humans. Ninety percent of wild cheetahs live alongside humans. Cheetahs come into conflict with humans when they they encroach on farmers herd's of cattle and  goats. The CCF takes part in an innovative program: Livestock Guarding Dogs. The Cheetah Conservation Fund donates twenty livestock-guarding dogs to farmers every year. The dogs protect the livestock herds by scaring away wild cheetahs, which saves them from being shot by farmers. 

This is Micah...I am so excited for my African adventure. To classmates and Mrs.Shisler aren't the cheetahs cute~ from Micah...bye-bye .

One third of all Cheetahs on the planet live in Namibia. There are very few if any in Zimbabwe so I didn't get to see any cheetahs while on safari in 1996. I am really looking forward to seeing some in the wild and hopefully an up close encounter at a cheetah sanctuary.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Packing for Africa

Temperatures
I have been monitoring the weather in both Johannesburg and Namibia for the last two months. 

                                                                                   screenshot from weather.com

First, the Southern Hemisphere is the opposite climate of the Northern hemisphere. When it’s summer here it‘s winter there. But one also must factor in the relationship to the equator.  Portland, Maine is 43’latitude and Johannesburg is 26’latitude, thus Southern Africa is closer to the equator.

                            copyright Univ of CA http://cse.ssl.berkeley.edu/segwayed/lessons/search_ice_snow/ski.2b1Map.html

 Winter in Southern Africa means the dry season. While in Zimbabwe, it only “misted” one day in six weeks.  So, I am expecting warm, sunny days with daytime highs of 75 degrees in South Africa and 85 degrees in Namibia. It sounds lovely. It’s the nights I am concerned about, as we will be tenting for over half of our trip and the nighttime temperatures are in the 30-40s. I nearly froze to death in 1996 in a tent at Great Zimbabwe and again on an early morning game drive in Hwange National Park in the back of an open safari vehicle. The nights will be cold!


Cultural Expectations
Africans dress well. In the cities and small towns, women wear dresses and men are in suits or slacks and dress shirts. The best way to stand out as a tourist is wear your safari attire in town.

On Safari
The winter is the best time for game viewing because the dry season means little rain. This brings the animals to the water holes also known as a pan. There is a reason people dress in khaki on safari, you want to blend in so you don’t startle the animals. Obviously red and orange are eye catching, but even white can upset the animals. Since our visit will be during the dry season, most of Southern African foliage is light brown and so we want to be light brown also, to blend in.

Our Plan
We are packing mostly long pants and long sleeve shirts with only a few pairs of shorts for Namibia, and we are planning to dress in layers to accommodate the steep changes in temperature each day. The duffel bag will be filled with socks, sweatpants and a sweat shirt for cold nights in the tent. I'm thinking of bring some long skirts for sightseeing in Johannesburg.



Saturday, June 15, 2013

The Talk


I had “the talk” with Micah today… Not that talk! The “You represent the United States when you travel abroad” talk.  My Zimbabwean experience was that Africans love Americans, but non-Africans traveling in Africa do not like Americans.
Let’s face it there is a stereotype of Americans as fat, pushy, lazy, loud, stupid, showy and impatient. I had a young British woman at Victoria Falls, tell me snidely that I “looked American.” My response was that I thought the same about her, she looked stricken. I told Micah that because people in African countries see few Americans, how we behave reflects on our nation as a whole. No pressure, but your good behavior makes all of America look good and your bad behavior makes the U.S. look bad.  Impatient is Micah’s middle name and I have been preparing him for long waits, delays and holdups. It’s Africa and the pace is S-L-O-W, as Lopez Lomong said in his book Running for My Life, Africans embrace hakuna matata, no worries, as part of their culture.
We are traveling abroad because we want to experience another culture, but that also means that Africans will be experiencing American culture through interacting with us. As I told Micah, we need to be the best ambassadors for the United States that we can.  

Saturday, June 8, 2013

The 2013 African Adventure Itinerary


June 24                Flight Boston --> London; London -->Johannesburg

June 25               Arrive Johannesburg

June 25-26         Johannesburg… acclimating and sight seeing

June 27-30         Kruger National Park, Skukuza Rest Camp

July 1-3               Johannesburg Sight Seeing

July 3                   Flight Johannesburg, South African -->Windhoek, Namibia

July 3                   Namibia

                              July 3  Travel to Naukluft Mountain National Park.

                              July 4 Travel to  Sossusvlei, Camping at Solitaire.

                              July 5 travel to Swakopmund and the Brandberg Mountain

                              July 6 travel to Twyfelfontein

                              July 7 travel to Cheetah Sanctuary near the village of Kamanjab

                              July 8, 9, 10  Etosha National Park

                              July 11 Return to Windhoek

July 11                  Windhoek, Namibia hopefully some sight seeing

July 12                 Flight Windhoek à Johannesburg

July 13                   Day in Johannesburg, Flight to London.

July 14                   Flight London --> Boston

July 15                   Arrive Boston


Map of Southern Africa and the RED shows our adventure

Why South Africa and Namibia?

Everyone always asks “Why South Africa and Namibia.” When I start thinking about an African vacation my first concern was traveling with an 8-year old. First, politically stable, no civil wars for us. Second, a former British colony, so that people will speak English. Third, the country must have a major international city so that medical attention could be given in-country if necessary.  Fourth, a good safari destination; eight year olds want to see the beasts. I had heard good things about Kruger National Park, so I started researching South Africa.
Zebras in Kruger National Park, South Africa
                                                                                                   photo credit  http://www.flickr.com/photos/kleinz/4537872153/
The flights to Johannesburg were $3,286.20, and 24 hours each way (a full day on either side). The Kruger Safari was only 4-days and half the airfare. I felt, if we were going to spend two full days traveling there and away; and spend that much money we should extend the stay so that the actual trip would cost as much as the airfare so I would feel like I was getting my monies worth. I also wanted Micah to see another non-industrialized African country to see the contrast between Johannesburg and another more typical small African city. Then I started researching other safari options in Botswana and Namibia. Namibia won out mainly because it has a dramatic and unique topography and the government has spent some money on infrastructure to support tourism and it met most of my other requirements although it’s a former German colony.